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Canal du Midi, France – Argens-Minervois to Narbonne

Day 1:

Okay – we’ve arrived at Argens-Minervois and had the introductory tour of our sparkling new Penichette Evolution from Locaboat and now it’s time for a little test drive around the marina!

argensminervoisMarty is a little nervous because our boat doesn’t have a scratch on it and some of the others in the yard have more than a few. On the other hand though, the sides of every boat are very well protected with inflated bolsters so that’s a relief! It is our personal challenge to return the Gardouche in pristine condition!

rubia.pngOur technician advised us to get on “the road” as the canals close down at 7pm and it was already 4pm, so that’s what we did. We struck our first lock within 3 minutes of leaving the marina and had a moment of panic, but aced it with the help of a slightly grumpy French lock keeper who must see the worst of the inexperienced travellers, being the first lock on the canal after Argens depot!

We decided to head for Ventenac-en-Minervois to overnight before the curfew and one of the first villages passed was little Roubia. Just after the next village Paraza, was an exciting moment crossing a canal bridge that crosses the small River Répudre and where you are looking down from a suspended bridge to the valley and river below – it’s quite unreal and an absolute feat of engineering genius given the era in which it was built.

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After tying up for the night we had the chance to test drive the kitchen facilities. With the convection hob and oven, and a great range of kitchen equipment, it was just like cooking at home and while there was only 2 of us, it would easily have coped with cooking for 4. Fresh mushroom omelettes and salad washed down by some leftover Medoc from Bordeaux was just what the doctor ordered! The bedding is all supplied and the fitted sheets, pillows and duvets made making the bed at night simple.  After folding down the dining table, it was a matter of pulling out a spring-loaded base and “voila” – instant bedtime! If there had been 4 of us, there was the option for another double bed at the front of the boat, so would easily have coped with a small family or two couples.

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The beauty of sleeping on a canal boat (as opposed to a yacht) is that there is no tidal movement and no waves, so a good night sleep is pretty much guaranteed.  We certainly had a great sleep and couldn’t wait to head off the next day…

Day 2:

As it was Sunday, the only thing we heard in the morning was the Ventenac church bells. A quick walk around the town showed that everyone was either at said church or still in bed, so we got prepared to “cast off”.

Next stop was the small but important town of Le Somail. The approach is quite dramatic as you pass under a picturesque bridge with a peek of the Palm trees on the other side of the bridge. Lining the sides of the river are clusters of pretty little restaurants and cafes and there were quite a few canal boats of varying sizes moored there, as well as some of the very popular “hotel barges” which can accommodate larger groups and where you have a skipper, small staff and meals are provided. They tend to operate more in the high season, so were probably moored for some maintenance or downtime.

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60C3CFAA-D84F-4E69-AF37-AC1E29FBD2BCOn the Canal du Midi (and probably other canals in France) the locks close down for lunch between 12.00pm and 1.00pm, so you need to plan your lock transit activity around this time. We decided to head along to the Port La Robine and lunch at the start of the series of 7 almost continuous locks that are the final stretch before the Moussoulens Gate. Lunch in the sun on the deck was followed by a flurry of activity after the lock-keepers returned from their “dejeuner”.

IMG_7912This stretch of locks is the perfect place to become expert at the lock operation procedure (which is actually quite simple). I grabbed the cycle off the boat and cycled the short distance to the operation console and pushed the button to ready the lock, while Marty waited for the “green” light. When the gates opened and the light went green, he manoeuvred into the lock and moored to the side, while throwing the forward and aft ropes to me to hold. Once in position, you push the next button which starts the slow release (or fill depending on which direction you are going) of water from the lock. When your lock is at the same level as the waterway you are heading for, your gates will automatically open, at which point the ropes are thrown back on board. Normally if you have only been through one lock, the land operator (me) will board the boat again after the lock, but as we had another 6 to go, I chose to ride the bike between the first 5 – which was a bit of fun.

img_7957-2.jpgAt each lock, there is a lock-keepers residence which is usually a quaint older cottage but sometimes at the larger locks, maybe a larger building that is not usually occupied. All of the lock buildings have a painted sign about their door which gives you your elevation and the distance between the beginning and end of the canal. This would have been very useful in the days before Google! While we didn’t see any of the lock-keepers, there is a bell which can be used to summon them for help or in the event of any problems. I believe they are more visible in the Summer months when there are many more craft on the canal and so they supervise each lock operation.

The last lock in this series, at Sallèlles-d’Aude – is in a very pretty little village and was a particularly deep one so took a while to fill. After this last bit of excitement for the day, we decided to pass through the Moussoulens Gate, where the River Aude joins the canal, to head for Narbonne for the night.

Coming up…arriving in Narbonne and then heading for the coast in our next blog!

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Canal du Midi – canal cruising with Locaboat Holidays France

When I first knew we were coming to France, one of the things I wanted to add to the list of “maybe’s” was to experience a canal boat journey – something friends had done and raved about. This was something I knew I would definitely get past the “other half” because it involved driving, water, lots of relaxation, the ability to stock up on beers, wine and great French food regularly, and some pretty good scenery along with the thrill of doing something quite different!

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Our travel agent dealt with Dave at Eurolynx in New Zealand (a wholesale travel company that specialises in the waterways of UK and Europe) and he made everything effortless because not only did he suggest a range of itineraries and options for the time of year we wanted to travel, but when the tickets arrived, so did a whole lot of supplementary information and maps which allowed us to forward plan . It also gave us a very good indication of what would be provided by Locaboat Holidays and what we needed to bring on board.

So we chose the Canal du Midi in the South of France as we were going to be spending some time in that region before and after.  But before our tale, some history on this fascinating waterway…

A feat of engineering genius that was considered one of the greatest constructions of the 17th century, the Canal is 240km long and connects the Garonne river at Toulouse, to the Étang de Thau right down on the Med. Commenced during the reign of Louis 14th in 1666 by Pierre-Paul Riquet, this particular canal was to give life to the trade in wheat, wine, silk and salt and save huge amounts of time and the risk of pirate attack, in having to transport goods by sea around the Iberian Peninsula and the Strait of Gibralter which was then occupied by the Spanish.

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The course and planning of the river and its source was amazing enough for those times but when you consider that the landscape rises 57.18m from Toulouse and then falls to the Mediterranean, you can be especially wowed by the idea and execution of the 86 original locks and like me, in particular, the group of 8 ‘Fonserannes’  staircase locks just before Béziers. There are an array of charming bridges, tunnels and spillways along the route as well as the historic larger towns like Carcassone, Narbonne and Béziers and the smaller quaint ones such as Le Somail and Homps.

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We learnt of so many interesting and historical facts about the canal along the way and of real interest to me was the history of the planting of the canals. Now, mainly mature Plane trees line the banks (albeit with many missing due to a spreading canker disease) and give the canal a peaceful charming appearance, but during the 1700’s when the silk industry was at its height, the banks were commercially lined with Mulberry trees which are the main food source of silkworms. Iris was also planted to secure the canal sides and now cover most of the length that we travelled. We were lucky to see a few coming out in Spring but I am sure the Summer display would be stunning. The Canal du Midi was declared a UNESCO World Heritage site in 1996 and is a special place.

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Getting prepared & getting there!

We had to collect our boat at the beginning of April so after a few days in the striking fortress city of Carcassonne, we headed southwards by car down to a small but pretty canalside village named Argens-Minervois. But we weren’t there for the scenery – we were there to collect our brand spanking new Locaboat Holidays Evolution Penichette – our floating home for the next week on the stunning Canal du Midi! Locaboat name each of their boats for a French town and ours was to be the sparkling Gardouche.

img_7874.jpgHeaps of safe parking is available for customers at a relatively reasonable day rate and we had pre-booked bicycles for the boat and wifi to make sure every angle was covered on the journey. After a bit of paperwork and formality, we were given a guided tour of our brand new little Penichette. Being brand new, we were lucky to have such luxuries as a convection hob and gas oven, wifi, pump heating, a great bathroom and for the blokes – front and rear bow thrusters and 360degree joystick for use at low revs! Did I mention the stylish decor and lovely front and rear deck facilities (sadly we didn’t see too much good weather).

 

We had done a big shop at a supermarket on the way, but you can pick up smaller and fresh items at the little store/bakery at the depot. Don’t worry though, because unless it’s Sunday, you can pretty much pick groceries and essentials up along the way and when you arrive in the larger towns like Narbonne, there are always the fresh food markets to tempt you and they offer both fresh fruit & veges, meats, patisserie, wines and more but also beautiful, hand-prepared food that you can take back to the boat and heat up – and taste just like Grandma used to make!

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See our next blog for heading off and our first few days of heading to Narbonne….

@locaboatholidays

 

 

 

 

 

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The Beauty of Barga and the Garfagnana

If you’re looking for somewhere to get away from it all, the medieval town of Barga in the Garfagnana is a lovely location. While there are several historic sites, churches and monuments, none are as compelling as the vistas of the countryside and mountains, so it is the perfect place to take a break from sightseeing and spend a restorative day or two ‘smelling the roses’. If you’re after a little more action, Barga is also a great base for some serious mountain biking and hiking.

The Garfagnana is the area that encompasses the valley and hills trailing the Serchio River between the Apuan Alps and the Apennines towards Lucca. It is probably the most undiscovered part of Tuscany and is prized for its wide skies and mountain vistas. Mostly consisting of small, hillside hamlets scattered among oak and chestnut forests, Barga is one of the larger settlements in the Garfagnana and is billed as the most Scottish town in Italy (a nod to the Scottish Highlands).

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Getting there

Barga is approximately 35km from Lucca and is an easy, 45-minute drive. From Pisa, it’s about an hour. There are regular trains from Lucca to Barga-Gallicano station on the Lucca – Aulla line (€9.00 return trip). From Barga-Gallicano station, Barga is about 4km uphill. If you’re fit, take a bike with you (additional €3.00 return trip on the train), but the climb from the station is quite steep and would challenge a novice rider. Buses run from across the road from the station, but may not connect with all trains, so it is best to check at the time of booking. It is also possible to travel direct from Lucca by bus.

Staying there

If you don’t have a car, you will almost definitely want to arrange accommodation in Barga. For those with a car, the range of accommodation extends to luxury spa hotels and agriturismos in the surrounding hamlets.

We travelled by train (with bikes) and stayed in Barga at 3-star Villa Moorings Hotel, which was a 5-minute walk to the old city and to a range of restaurants and osterie. Villa Moorings Hotel is a Liberty style villa-turned-hotel and is packed to the gunnels with history and charm. Our room and bathroom were vast and full of period furniture and fittings. Beatrice, the owner/manager, was as charming as her hotel. She has done a wonderful job of repurposing the villa, once owned by her grandparents – think frescoed ceilings, grand staircases and ornately tiled floors. The effect of stately charm extends to the outdoors where there is a large pool alongside a grassed lawn and orchard. We travelled to Barga in June and booked through a booking website, however you can contact Beatrice direct on +39 583-710915 or +39 583-711538. We paid €101 for the night plus €10pp for a breakfast that was delicious and way more substantial than we needed.

Eating out

There is a range of trattorie and osterie in the old city and several options outside the old city walls, including bars and pizzarie. Like other Tuscan cuisine, the Garfagnese take pride in preparing traditionally simple food, using local, seasonal produce. We had dinner in the old city at L’Osteria, which included an antipasto of cheese, nuts and honey, followed by macaroni (no resemblance to what we are used to in NZ) with truffle, then by lamb and potatoes – all delicious and relatively inexpensive at €39 plus drinks. We skipped dessert and were treated to a glass of local limoncello ‘on the house’ before we left.

What to do

Duomo di Barga
A walk up to Barga’s Duomo (Church of San Cristoforo) through the old town is a must. Walking through the town, you can be forgiven for feeling somewhat of an intruder – the cobbled lanes and stepped passages are very narrow and steep; even the piazze are tiny. Follow your nose uphill and you will eventually arrive at the terrace of the Duomo where you can take in the majesty of the views of the Serchio river valley, the Appenines and the Apuan Alps. From behind the Duomo, looking down towards the valley floor, you can see steeply terraced plantings of grapevines, olive trees, citrus and vegetables that are typical of the area. The Duomo itself is well worth a look and will provide welcome relief from the heat if you are there in the summer.

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Sommocolonia…
Looking out of our hotel window, I was intrigued by the tiny village sitting atop a not too distant hill to the north of Barga. Beatrice was quick to provide us with directions that included a hike up to Sommocolonia by way of an ancient mule track (mulatiettiera). The mule track can be joined about 2km from Barga at Catagnana; keep an eye out for the red and white ‘signs’ (which may just be paint marks on the road, and may almost be worn away). We lost our way a couple of times and needed guidance from a helpful local, the owner of two mules which we had the pleasure of encountering along the way. The climb up to Sommocolonia is not difficult, but it is a steep walk and requires a reasonable level of fitness (approx. 1.5 hours). At the top, from the tiny village (population about 35), the views are sublime. Originally an important fortified Roman outpost, Sommocolonia was partially destroyed by bombing in 1944 during the Second World War. At the village’s highest point, a monument to the partisans who died fighting alongside US forces seems incongruous with what now appears to be a peaceful and sleepy village. It’s a good idea to take plenty of water and a snack with you. When we visited, the only people we encountered were also hikers and although it was very hot and made sense for locals to be indoors, the chance of happening upon a bar or any other eatery seemed very remote.

Another big thanks to guest blogger Niki McNeilage of Wellington who is currently spending a few months living and touring in Italy, France and Spain.

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Slow travel – Lucca, Italy

If you’ve pounded the cobbles, jostled with hordes of tourists, wilted in queues for the ‘must-sees’ and yet remain in love with Italy, consider Lucca in Tuscany as a slow travel destination or base for your next experience of la dolce vita.

Ignore the current herd mentality: ‘Tuscany is done to death. Florence is overcrowded. Chianti is expensive and overrated’. Head to Lucca for an experience that is quintessentially Italian, in a city that is very liveable for residents and tourists alike.

Yes, the scenery in the surrounding countryside is jaw-dropping – olive groves, vineyards, peach and cherry orchards. And yes, the medieval buildings, churches, and monuments are awe-inspiring. It’s the essence of Lucca and its citizens (Lucchesi), the ease of getting around, and its proximity to other transport hubs that differentiate Lucca as an ideal destination.

Lucca is defined by le Mura, an ancient 12-metre high, 4.2km stone wall that surrounds the historic centre of the city. Originally built to protect citizens from invading Pisans and Florentines, the wall is now a tree-lined promenade and wooded park for the Lucchesi and invading visitors. On any day, the wall resembles a treadmill of strollers, amblers, dog-walkers, runners, and cyclists. On its grassed and wooded bastions, locals engage in cross-fit, yoga, board games and any number of other activities.  It’s a venue to meet friends, sit, read, and for those with time on their hands, to while it away. Drop down from the wall into il centro and you’ll discover a maze of cobbled streets, lanes and piazze. There are myriad shops, bars, delis, restaurants, trattorie, pasticcerie and gelaterie. Of course, there are also supermarkets, banks, pharmacies, and the usual trading establishments you would expect to find in a thriving city. After all, unlike many of Italy’s other, more touristy cities, the Lucchesi live and work in their historic centre.

Lucca is not however confined to its historic centre. Outside the wall and beyond its pastured fringe, a tree-lined ring-road spills traffic to nearby residential, commercial and agricultural areas, and to all the services essential to support the city.

The Lucchesi are a paradox of professional and polite yet warm and friendly, parochial yet cosmopolitan, and laidback yet conscientious. In the hotels and restaurants and in many of the shops, staff speak sufficient English to easily accommodate visitors. They know when you buy a coffee that you’ll likely want to sit at a table outside, and they don’t charge extra for table service, which is common in many of Italy’s busier tourist cities.

Getting about is easy. Walking or better still, cycling is the most convenient way. In fact, the centre of Lucca is limited to residents’ vehicles and in much of the centre, vehicular access is prohibited. Whether you’re an accomplished cyclist keen to take advantage of the fantastic cycle routes on offer outside the city, or a novice hoping to master a few laps of le Mura and pick up dinner from the deli, there are bike shops that can rent or sell you the right bike for the job. Lucca is a city of bike users and bike aficionados.

Options for activities in Lucca are plentiful. Shopping ranges from high-end designer stores to farmers’ markets. Take in some of the sightseeing, festivals, shows, exhibitions, and concerts on offer. There’s something for everyone. Take a language course or a cooking class. Don’t be surprised, when you’re out for dinner, to find there’s a free concert in the piazza you’re dining in. For the more active, there’s hiking, mountain biking, equestrian, and cycling.

Within an hour of Lucca and an easy day trip by train or car (or by bike for the fit), you can visit the vineyards, wineries and olive oil producers in the hills of Lucca and in Monte Carlo; the seaside resorts of Viareggio and Versilia; the spa towns of Bagni di Lucca and Montecatini Terme; the mountain towns of the Garfagnana; or Pisa (and its famous tower). Many are worthy of at least one night’s stay, if you have the time.

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Florence and all that it offers, Siena, the hill towns of San Gimignano and Volterra, and the Italian Riviera cities of La Spezia (the southern gateway to the Cinque Terre) and Portovenere are within easy reach by train or car. You will almost definitely want to consider making more than a day trip to these.

Venture further afield by car or by public transport; trains hub out of Pisa and Florence, and both cities are serviced by international airports.

If you’re looking to immerse yourself in la dolce vita, Lucca is an easy and relaxed destination to do it from. Expect the unexpected, take the time to observe the locals, soak up the atmosphere and experience the culture. Do as little or as much as you like; you just might not want to leave lovely Lucca.

Big thanks to guest blogger – Niki McNeilage from Wellington who is spending a few months living in and experiencing the charms of Italy, Spain and France.

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