Česky Krumlov – a fairytale town

Most travellers know the Czech Republic best for its beautiful and historically intact city of Prague.  Many do not venture further into this vast country unless they are driving to one of its four neighbouring countries (Germany, Austria, Poland or Slovakia) or taking a tour of this most interesting of regions.

After a memorable stay in Prague we reluctantly left the city on our way to Austria, but decided to break the trip in Česky Krumlov as 2.5 hours seemed about the right distance to drive in a day.  The countryside was punctuated by large stretches of forest, field and smaller villages with unpronounceable names but outside of the city, life seemed quite simple and agrarian. There were many hop orchards, unsurprising for a country with the highest beer consumption in the world!  I had decided on a stay at Česky Krumlov, having read that it was quite untouched by time, had a UNESCO World Heritage rating and that there was a 7+ hectare Rococo styled garden within the grounds of the 13th-century castle – all magnet keywords for me.

(Left-hand image from Hotel Konvice website)

As soon as we reached the town perimeter, we knew this had been a good choice. Dominated by the large castle built over a solid rock-bridge on a promontory of the river, the town is a typical medieval combination of narrow lanes and alleys, tall terracotta-roofed buildings and a “chocolate box” view around every corner. The architecture of the town developed between the 14th-17th centuries and shows the Gothic, Renaissance and Baroque influences typical of these periods. The Vltava River forms an almost moat-like circle around the town and its hairpin “S” shape is best viewed from the castle bell-tower (around 160 steps – small entrance fee). This is the land of “Good King Wenceslas” of Christmas carol fame, a Bohemian Duke (not King) who embarked on a journey braving harsh winter weather to give alms to the poor. Considered a saint and martyr after his murder, the Czechs celebrate his feast day on 28 September.

Able to drive to the door of our charming boutique accommodation Hotel Konvice on Horni ulice 145, we were able to leave our bags and drop the car to a nearby carpark with a nightly charge of around NZ$12.00. Now, this hotel was a great choice – a 16th-century building with a stunning lobby area full of curved stone ceilings, views to the castle and a somewhat “shabby chic” style. Each suite or room is individually decorated and our room (Chamber 11), contained 2 bedrooms, the master with a view to the bell-tower and a very well equipped and spotless bathroom. The hotel is a member of the Schlosshotels & Herrenhäuser – Castle Hotels & Mansions, a select group comprising romantic castle hotels, historic country homes, manor houses, estates, inns and restaurants in Austria, Germany, Italy, Slovenia, Croatia, Hungary, Slovakia and the Czech Republic.

Breakfast is included in your stay, with a small but excellent continental range and is served in the restaurant just off the lobby. We also enjoyed an excellent dinner at the Restaurant Konvice with their signature goulash and dumplings, followed by a delicious honey cake and their homemade plum and cherry spirits – a sure way of warming the cockles of your heart! The Czech beer range is huge, it is well priced and so popular that many Czechs drink beer with breakfast. Staff were friendly, the surroundings warm and comfortable and dotted with antiques – this was a fairytale hotel fit for a fairytale town.

Our visit list included the Castle and gardens – one of the biggest castle complex in Europe, and can take quite a while to get around – but it’s worth it.  We were all fascinated (and a little sad) that the dry moat area around the land side entry to the castle has a bear pit that currently houses 4 brown bears. The Castle has bred bears for the defensive moat since the 16th century and a castle family crest contained the emblem of bears holding up shields. We walked over the stone moat bridge that had replaced the old timber drawbridge into the first of a series of courtyards, each emanating or developed during a distinctive period in history. The IIIrd and IVth upper castle courtyards contained Renaissance paintings depicting mythological scenes from Greek and Roman history on their facades and are the work of Renaissance court painter Gabriel de Blonde. The Castle preserves its famous Baroque theatre, built in 1680. It is one of few such court theatres to retain its original stage machinery, scenery and props but due to its age, is only used three times a year to perform Baroque opera under false candlelight.

One of the many advantages of visiting Europe in the Winter months is that we did not have to vie with the hoards of tourists who descend on this picturesque village at other times of the year.  A downside for some travelling in Winter through Europe is that gardens are not as vibrant as in Spring or Summer and many of the statuary or ornamentation is covered against frosts. An advantage I see in viewing gardens, or in fact countryside in the Winter is that you just plain see more. With so many deciduous trees in Europe, the structure of the view or vista is revealed to a greater extent in Winter and there are some Chateaux, Villas or Castles that you may never see from the roadways during other seasons.

We paid around NZ$25 for a family pass to the museum and tower and entry to the gardens is free. There are a number of very good guided tours of the castle interior in English, with family prices at around NZ$36.  The castle is open almost every day, year round (excluding Christmas and Boxing Day) but check this website for all information on open dates, times and tour times.

Would we go back? Without a doubt and this time, I would like to study the Castle and grounds in much more detail.

Happy travelling, Liz 🙂

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